Comments on: Computer audio on the Mac – getting started

By: Ian

Ian — Thu, 15 Jun 2017 03:42:12 +0000

Great article. I have printed it out for my wife (at her request) in case I cannot continue to be administrator of the computer music system 🙂

I have come to the conclusion that ANY Apple computer running OS X 10.4 onwards from around 2004 to the present is a good choice for a music player. The main reasons are ease of use of both software and hardware and connection of external devices such as remotes and library sharing between networked computers and tablets. If you have a resident IT consultant you may consider a Windows-based computer. For a few years I was using a $20 Intel Core Duo 20″ iMac with a busted screen dedicated as a music player using an external monitor and HD. I could even control it using an iPad using REMOTE app. I have since upgraded to a late 2009 mac mini, but only for a more compact system.

By: Murray Guy

Murray Guy — Tue, 02 Aug 2016 21:20:43 +0000

Awesome article …. Thank you very much for changing the way I will be listening to music.
My wife has been after me to downsize stereo system in the front room and this article provides a great solution. Today I got me a the Mini Mac …. ordered a NAD c356 with Internal DAC to run the new to me Roksan Kandy TR-5 book shelf speakers. Looking forward to great sound with a small footprint and no need for a stack of Cd’s.

Not a hi-fi techy so please take it easy on me for the pairing of equipment. Cheers

By: John Reekie

John Reekie — Fri, 17 Jun 2016 14:59:15 +0000

Hi Tom, the obvious way would be to connect an optical cable. You need one with a 3.5mm optical connector one end and a normal optical connector on the other. It looks like the front panel USB input is intended for portable devices only, you can’t connect your computer to it. So if the optical connection does not suit, then a USB-SPDIF convertor or an external USB DAC (as explained in the article) would be the next step.

By: Tom

Tom — Fri, 17 Jun 2016 12:19:49 +0000

Hello! Can u please help me with your advice, what is the best way possible to connect my Macbook Air mid2013 and Rotel RA-12 integrated amplifier? Thank you very much

By: John Reekie

John Reekie — Thu, 16 Jun 2016 14:18:17 +0000

Hi Steve, once you have your CDs in a lossless format, you could try using a program like XLD to make an MP3 version of your library – https://sourceforge.net/projects/xld/ (I haven’t used it recently but I did at one point use it to convert my whole library to FLAC).

By: SteveD

SteveD — Sat, 11 Jun 2016 18:57:12 +0000

Thanks for this article it’s made a lot of things much clearer. So now I will chose a DAC and get it all set up. Unfortunately all my iTunes are MP3 because I download the library on to a USB stick for my car and my car only recognises MP3. I have 2 MACs so perhaps I’ll be able to have an iTunes library on the other with High Def files.

By: Manfred Feuser

Manfred Feuser — Thu, 28 Jan 2016 09:29:48 +0000

Thank you for your quick reply , I will test the Lifatec cable from the USA
my advise was it will be adequate. If not the Raspberry PI will be next.
Regards , Manfred

By: John Reekie

John Reekie — Wed, 27 Jan 2016 15:29:44 +0000

Hi Manfred, I have no experience with TOSLINK cables of different types of lengths. If distance is an issue, I would be inclined to try something else like a remote player (see my articles on Raspberry Pi).

By: Manfred Feuser

Manfred Feuser — Wed, 27 Jan 2016 07:35:46 +0000

Hi John , many thank’s for this great information .
I have been using a Macbook Pro 13″ the 2012 version , utilising its headphone socket
with Toslink. Never noticed flutter with its 1m Toslink. The Amp is a Nad C390
and so does not require DAC ,works fine sound is good.
However the remote control is absolutely appalling unless it is pointed direct it will not function.
Relocating the amp means a 6m Toslink has to be used . Advise from several sources was
keep the Toslink short like 1.5m max or there will be reduction quality.
I thought perhaps the pure glass Lifatec US made will do it , is glass better I am just not sure.
If you have experience with Longer Toslink runs would you please advise.
Thank you , Manfred

By: Dan

Dan — Fri, 08 Jan 2016 06:03:14 +0000

Solved my own problem. After trying everything possible, new cables, hooking up a Thunderbolt drive etc… the Yamaha A/V became the last suspect. Bought a new model and everything works fine. The old A/V HDMI inputs were fried or rather half baked because they still worked once the iMac was booted up but would not let the iMac boot if the HDMI was plugged in beforehand. There must also be other stuff broken as well inside. Anyway the Toslink optical connection works as well as the HDMI /Thunderbolt connection.